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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.